I'm hoping I can drill holes in the steel ring and use some metal bushings to space it off properly on the inside of the shroud. The inner fan blades are almost exactly the same diameter as the fan shroud, but are ever so slightly smaller. ![]() I purchased an 8" OD 4" ID 1/4" steel ring, and am going to use that as the interior mounting ring for the Flex-a-lite fan I purchased. Hopefully the JB plastic weld is a strong enough repair. I bought some JB plastic weld and am attempting to repair the crack. My old fan shroud had a crack in the bottom flap piece, and was also missing that flap. I did heat up the center a bit though and got the plastic somewhat hot, so I'm not too sure about the structural integrity of the piece anymore. I still have the old fan blades in tact, so if I ever need to get a new motor and put them back together, I should be able to. The shaft and center bushing piece of the old blades seemed to be corroded together. I managed to get the old fan out but unfortunately had to damage the center piece slightly and cut the nub off the fan motor. I read these Vipers run hot, but if the AC starts blowing warm because poor air flow, that's a problem!Īnyways, how did you bypass the high side wiring? I see you said you capped it off, is it something at original fan plug (car harness side), or is it somewhere else? It sounded fine when it was on, but unless I was going 50+ MPH, it got a little warmer than I was comfortable with and on the way back from Texas when it was 90+ degrees, the AC stopped blowing cold in stop and go traffic (which to me means the cooling system is in trouble). The original fan I have on seems to have very slight binding when I try and turn it by hand. I'm also missing a little flap so I'll have to fabricate that, but I bought a Flex-a-Lite 16" fan that's supposed to be 2500-3000 CFM (which I believe is higher than stock). It gets hot here in Phoenix, so I want to make sure my fan is working well.ĭespite being a 98 GTS, I had this Gen I shroud, maybe I got unlucky, or maybe it was previously replaced. I'm trying to do the same thing as you because my Viper seemed to be getting too hot last summer after I got it. You must be registered for see images attach ![]() I do use a battery tender regularly since I do no drive the Viper often. The Viper started up no problem, despite the fan controller cycling the fan on and off last weekend after my drive and parking the car a week with no battery tender. ![]() Ill check if the engine cranks tomorrow or if the SPAL drew the battery down, during its on / off cycling with key off. I then parked it in the garage, with the car off, the SPAL was kicking on like it normally does. Seems 2000 CFM puller with a SPAL and OEM shroud so far, works very well. I ran through the gears very hard then hit traffic several times, the SPAL had no issue bringing the temp back down. I raised the ROE until it kicks on just above the 3 tick mark in the center. I needed to bump up the trigger temp on the ROE, as the fan kept cooling the temps down the 1st mark on the center of 190 degrees. ![]() Ok out for a longer ride today, still pretty cool outside at 67 degrees.įan controls heat very well and it is loud, but I have no muffs so the fan is not to noticeable.
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